Unknown Nectars for the Connoisseurs

Contributed By Roberta Riccardi - Parma, Italy

Colli di Parma Doc:

In the Northern part of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, on the border between the regions of Lombardy and Emilia, there is an extended vineyard land where a series of wines are produced, denominated Colli di Parma Doc. This Doc includes Rosso, Malvasia Secca (dry), Malvasia Dolce (sweet) and Sauvignon. In the production of Rosso, the Barbera grapes, known in olden days as Barbera di Langhirano, are of particular importance. Among the white wines, the most peculiar is without a doubt Malvasia Secca and Dolce, which were already exported in Napoleonic times, and much appreciated by the French connoisseurs.

Use:

Colli di Parma in the Malvasia Secca version is served in tulip-shaped medium-sized chalices at a temperature of 8°C / 46°F. It can be served with vegetable soup, egg-based dishes, fish-soup, cold cuts and Parmigiano Reggiano. Malvasia Dolce is served in large chalices at a temperature of 6-8°C / 42-46°F. Perfect with fruit and rice cakes, fruit salads, and the typical ciambella. Rosso is served in Bordeaux chalices at a temperature of 16-18°C / 60-64°F. Appropriate with baked lasagne, stuffed pasta with ragù sauce, roasted meat, cold cuts and sausages.

Preservation:

There are no rigid rules to preserve wines belonging to the Colli di Parma Doc properly: it is enough to keep the wine in a dark room, at a constant temperature of 10 to 15°C / 50-59°F. In order to keep the cork from becoming too dry, humidity must be around 70-75%. Bottles must be kept horizontal on wooden shelves.

Production:

Colli di Parma Malvasia Secca starts with fermentation of the juice which must occur far away from the grape skins. Technically the productive process of white wines is more delicate than that of red wines, since white wines are subject to macrobiotic changes and atypical fermentation, if the processes are not correctly followed. Generally, whole grapes are pressed to separate the juice from the skins and from the solid parts, reducing laceration to a minimum. Racking follows, to eliminate any suspended particles, then sulphating with sulphur anhydride and fermentation, which must not exceed 20°C / 68°F. At the end the wine is drawn off with decantation which allows it to become limpid. Once decantation is over, the wine is ready to be bottled. Malvasia Amabile or Dolce is obtained by adding a high level of sugars to the white wine, to guarantee the sweet taste of the wine. The production of the Colli di Parma Rosso is obtained by pressing the grapes, which are then put to ferment and macerate with the marc. Drawing-off separates the must from the marc, and after refinement and aging, the wine is stabilised and bottled.

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Like most great things in life, Culinary International grew out of necessity. Actually, the concept of creating a premier culinary touring company began innocently enough when founders Rob and Barb Kircher returned from a two-city trip to Italy that featured cooking lessons in one of them. Their overall stay in Italy was wonderful. But sadly, their much anticipated cooking lessons were under-whelming. As a result, they developed the concept for Culinary International on their return flight back to America.

In creating Culinary International, Rob and Barb drew on their long history of being professional marketers. Rob has been the creative dynamism behind numerous consumer products, from soft drinks and wine to appliances and food products. His wife Barb is an interior designer and decorator, specializing in ethnic and eclectic surroundings; as well as a self-taught gourmet cook. Both of their related businesses require them to assess products, trends and lifestyles and find ways to make them more interesting, appealing, and enjoyable.

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Liguria Favorite Recipes...

This is the first in a series of favorite recipes from Liguria, Italy...

It has long been known that Ligurians feel happiest at home, preferring to do everything for themselves. This charming characteristic is also reflected in their cuisine, faithfully using local ingredients produced along the magnificent coastline, roughed terrain or from the depths of the legendary sea. The Ligurians call this nostrano or locally produced, also nicknamed cucina del ritorno or homecoming cooking. Everything from their delicate and aromatic olive oil, tangy herbs, crisp vegetables, daily sea harvests, and fresh farm eggs is of local pride.

Series A, No. 1

CIMA RIPIENA
[Stuffed breast of veal]

1 ½ lbs breast of veal, with pocket cut in it ready for stuffing
1 glove garlic
8 cups vegetable stock
2 bay leaves
For the stuffing:
¼ lb filet of veal, diced
1 tbsp butter
¼ lb ground veal
¼ lb pork
1 glass white wine
½ oz or ¾ loosely packed cup dried mushrooms
¾ cup fresh peas
1 tbsp marjoram, chopped
2 tbsp pistachios
About ½ cup freshly grated parmesan
3 eggs
Salt
Freshly milled pepper
Freshly grated nutmeg

Wash the breast of veal, pat dry and

rub the inside of the pocket with a glove of garlic.
For the stuffing, sauté meats in butter.

Pour over the white wine. Soak the mushrooms in lukewarm water.

Grind the meat and the mushrooms in a food processor and pour into a bowl.

Add the peas, marjoram, pistachios, parmesan and the beaten eggs, mix well.

Season with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg.

Fill the breast of veal two-thirds with the stuffing,

sew up, wrap in a kitchen towel and tie.

Place in a pan and cover completely with vegetable stock.

Add the bay leaves and simmer in the hot stock for 1 hour without the lid,

then for a further hour with the lid on.

Pierce the meat wrapping several times with a toothpick,

or a needle, to prevent it from bursting.

Remove the veal from the cloth,

place between two plates with a weight on top and allow to cool.

Slice and serve with a sauce of good olive oil and fresh herbs.


MINESTRONE ALLA GENOVESE
[Genoese vegetable soup]

¼ lb white cabbage
Small handful green beans
2 potatoes
2 carrots
2 leeks
2 tomatoes
2 zucchini
1 onion
1 glove garlic
1 bunch parsley
¼ cup chopped parsley
¼ lb fresh or pre-soaked red beans
½ cup olive oil
1 piece of parmesan rind
6 oz short noodles
1 tbsp pesto
Salt
Freshly grated parmesan

Clean all vegetables and herbs, chop in small pieces.

In a large pan, bring a good 8 cups water to a boil.

Add the beans and vegetables, with the exception of the onion, garlic and herbs,

reduce the heat, cover and simmer for just under 2 hours, stirring occasionally.

After 1 hour, add the olive oil and the cheese rind , salt the vegetables.

Mash the potatoes and beans with a wooden spoon

or a soup ladle to give the soup a velvety consistency, but do not puree the vegetables.

When the vegetables are cooked to a pulp, add the noodles and cook until al dente.


PANSOTI
[Filled pasta pockets]

Serves 6

For the dough:
3 cups all-purpose flour
3 eggs
Salt
For the filling:
1 lb Swiss chard
1 lb spinach
½ lb curly endive
5 oz ricotta
2 eggs
Generous ½ cup freshly grated parmesan
Small bunch marjoram
1 glove garlic

Knead the flour, eggs and a little salt into a dough

and add enough water to make it workable.

Roll out and cut into triangles the size of the palm of the hand.

Wash the Swiss chard, spinach and endive,

simmer in very little water until they begin to soften.

Press out well, blend briefly in a food processor,

mix with the ricotta, eggs and parmesan.

Finely chop the marjoram leaves and garlic and stir in.

Using a teaspoon, take walnut-sized portions of the mixture and place on the triangles.

Fold the edges together over the filling to make fat pockets.

Cook in salted water for about 10 minutes
al dente, then take them out. Serve with walnut sauce.


SALSA DI NOCI
[Walnut sauce]

18 walnut halves
1/3 cup pine nuts
½ minced clove garlic
1 bunch parsley
1 cup light cream
Salt and pepper
3 tbsp freshly grated parmesan
1 1/3 tbsp butter

Blanch the walnut halves and remove the skins.

Chop the walnuts, pine nuts, garlic and parsley finely

in a blender and pour into a bowl.

Slowly add the cream, stirring constantly.
Season with salt and pepper.
Pour over the pasta, cooked until al dente with grated parmesan and melted butter.


SCIUMETTE
[Floating islands]

4 eggs
Scant ½ cup superfine sugar
4 cups milk
1 tbsp all-purpose flour
½ tbsp fresh pistachios, shelled
Powdered cinnamon

Separate the egg yolks from the whites.

Beat the whites with 1 tbsp of the sugar until stiff.

In a casserole, bring the milk to a boil and,

using a spoon, very gently add the beaten egg whites,

which should set immediately.

Cook the resulting "snowballs" very briefly,

then lift out with a draining spoon, leave to fully drain in a sieve.

Remove the milk from the heat,

add the remaining sugar, stir in the flour and leave to cool.

Crush the pistachios, cook for a few minutes in a little milk and sieve.

Beat the egg yolks and gradually add to the milk and flour mixture.

Finally mix in the pistachio puree.

Put the mixture back on the heat in a hot double boiler

and allow to thicken a little over a low heat.

Take care not to let the water boil.

Pour the thickened mixture into a bowl,

decorate with the "snowballs" and sprinkle with cinnamon.

Note: In Liguria, sciumette are traditionally made at carnival time.

Emilia-Romagna Favorite Recipes:

This is the first in a series of favorite receipes from Emilia-Romagna, Italy...

One of the most amazing culinary destinations in all of Italy is found in a special region known as Emilia-Romagna. Celebrated as the "breadbasket of Italy," this incredible treasure trove is as rich in culinary pleasures as it is in quaint medieval villages brimming with history and old-world charm. Just north of Tuscany, Emilia-Romagna unfolds into an enchanting landscape, from the fertile farmlands of Emilia to the earthy terrain of Romagna.

Series A, No. 1

TORTELLINI ROMAGNOLI
[Tortellini filled with Turkey]

For the dough:
3 ½ cups all-purpose flour
½ tsp salt
4 eggs

For the filling:
1 tbsp butter
¾ lb turkey breast, cut small
2 oz ricotta
2 oz fresh mozzarella
¼ cup freshly grated parmesan
Grated rind of ½ lemon
2 eggs
Grated nutmeg
Salt and freshly milled black pepper
Melted butter
Freshly grated parmesan for sprinkling

For the dough, sieve the flour onto the working surface and make a well in the middle.
Add the salt and eggs and knead to a smooth dough.

Shape into a ball, wrap in a damp cloth and leave for 30 minutes.

Melt the butter in a heavy pan, add the turkey meat,

and sauté for 15-20 minutes over a low heat.

Put the turkey pieces through the food processor

and mix with the other ingredients for the filling.

Season with nutmeg, salt and pepper.

Roll the dough out thin and cut circles about 2 inches in diameter.

Put a little filling in the middle of each and fold over into a half moon shape.

Wind each one round your finger and press the ends together.

Cook the tortellini in plenty of vegetable or fish stock until they rise to the surface.

This will take about 5 minutes.

Take them out, using a draining spoon and put them in a pre-warmed bowl.
Pour over melted butter, and sprinkle with grated parmesan if desired.

CROSTINI AL PARMIGIANO
[Parmesan Toast]

2 eggs
2/3 cup milk
6 cups freshly grated parmesan
Pepper
Grated nutmeg
1 baguette
1 tbsp butter
1/3 cup red wine

Mix the eggs, milk and cheese, season with pepper and nutmeg.

Slice the bread and spread each slice with the cheese paste.

Heat the butter in a pan and lightly brown the bread slices.

After a few minutes, pour over the wine and cover the pan.

Cook until the cheese has been melted.

RAGU ALLA BOLOGNESE
[Bolognese meat sauce]

1 onion
1 small carrot
1 stick celery
4 oz pancetta
½ lb ground beef
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 small glass white wine
1 cup tomato puree
2 tbsp tomato paste
Oregano
Salt and pepper
1 cup meat stock

Chop the onion, carrot and celery,

dice the belly pork small and fry slowly with the ground beef in the olive oil.

Pour over the white wine and stir well.

Add the tomato puree and tomato paste and season with oregano, salt and pepper.

Pour over a little meat stock and simmer for at least 1 hour over a very low heat.

In Bologna, there are almost as many variations

on this classic sauce as there are households;

for instance, a favorite addition is chopped chicken livers.

It is important to simmer all the ingredients for a long time,

because that is what gives the sauce its strong flavor.

ZUPPA INGLESE
[Trifle]

1 ½ cups milk
1/4 tsp vanilla extract
4 egg yolks1/2 cup sugar
Scant 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
Salt
3 ½ tsp preferred liqueur
24-30 Ladyfingers
Mint leaves

Heat the milk with the vanilla extract and leave for 30 minutes.

Stir the sugar into the egg yolks until it has dissolved.

Mix the flour with a pinch of salt.

Heat the egg mixture and add the milk a little at a time,

stirring continuously until the custard thickens.

Dilute the liqueur with a little water and drizzle over the Ladyfingers.

In a mold, alternate layers of custard and Ladyfingers.

Leave in a cool place for about 2 hours and decorate with the mint leaves.